In England irregular units of gamekeepers in the 17th century were the first
to adopt drab colours (common in the 16th century Irish units) while using
rifled firearms, following examples from the continent. A later example of a
camouflaged unit would be the
95th Rifle Regiment, which was created during the Napoleonic Wars to
strengthen the British skirmish line. As they carried
more accurate Baker Rifles and engaged at a longer range, they were dressed
in a rifle green jacket, in stark contrast to the Line regiments' scarlet
tunics and
following the jaeger tradition of rifle troops in Europe. The British in
India were forced by casualties to dye their white summer tunics to
neutral tones, initially a muddy tan called khaki (from the Hindi-Urdu word
for "dusty"). This was only a temporary measure. It became standard
in
Indian service in the 1880s, but it was not until the Second Boer War that,
in 1902, the uniforms of the entire
British Army were standardised on this dun tone for Service Dress.
Other armies retained brighter colours. At the beginning
of World War I, the French retained red (garance) trousers as part of
their uniform.
This was changed in early 1915. The French Army also adopted a new
"horizon blue" jacket. The
Belgian Army started using khaki uniforms in 1915.
The French also established a Section de Camouflage
(Camouflage
Department) in 1915, briefly headed by Eugene Corbin and then by Lucien-
Victor Guirand de Scévola. The camouflage experts were, for the
most part, painters, sculptors, theatre-set artists and such. Technological
constraints meant that patterned camouflage uniforms were not mass-produced
during World War I. Each patterned uniform was hand-painted, and so they
were restricted to snipers, forward artillery
observers, and other exposed individuals. More effort was put into
concealing larger pieces of equipment and important structures. By mid-1915
the French
section had four workshops (one in Paris and three nearer the front)
mainly producing camouflage netting and painted canvas.
Netting quickly moved from wire and fabric to use raffia, burlap, and cocoa—
the integration of natural materials was always recommended.
The United States, who had green-jacketed rifle units in the Civil War, was
quick to follow the British, going khaki in the same year.
Russia followed, partially, in 1908. The Italian Army used grigio-
verde ("grey-green") in the Alps from 1906
and across the army from 1909. The Germans adopted feldgrau
("field grey") in 1910.
 |
Units of Camoufleurs who were artists, designers, or architects
in
civilian life were also largely used by the forces of the
United Kingdom (Camouflage Section established in late 1916 based at
Wimereux) and the U.S. (New York Camouflage Society, established in April
1917; official Company A, 40th Engineers, set up in January 1918; and the
Women's Reserve Camouflage Corps) and to a lesser extent by Germany (from
1917, see, for example, Lozenge,
possibly the earliest printed camouflage), Italy (Laboratorio
di mascheramento, established in 1917), Belgium and
Russia. The word camouflage first entered the
English language in 1917. Camouflage added to helmets was unofficially
popular, but these were not
mass-produced until the Germans began in 1916 to issue
Stahlhelm
(steel helmets) in green, brown, or ochre.
Mass-produced patterned, reversible, cloth covers were also issued shortly
before the end of the war. Net covering was also examined, either fitted
with
natural vegetation or with coloured fabric strips called
scrim.
Specialist troops, notably snipers, could be supplied with various items of
camouflage, including patterned veils
for the head and gun, hand-painted overalls and scrim-covered netting or
sacking—an adaptation of the rag camouflage used in Scotland by anti-poaching
wardens, gillies, the first ghillie suits.
|
|
World War I Stahlhelm with camouflage pattern applied in the field |
|
The first mass-produced military camouflage material was
the Italian telo mimetico ("mimetic cloth") pattern of 1929,
used to cover a
shelter-half (telo tenda), an idea copied by the Germans in 1931 but
with her own camouflage history, beginning in 1918 with the German
Buntfarbenanstrich. The Red Army issued "amoeba" disruptive-
pattern suits to snipers from 1937 and all-white
ZMK top-garments the following year, but it was not until hostilities began
that more patterns were used.
With mass-production of patterned fabrics possible, they became far more
common on individual soldiers in World
War II. Initially, patterning was uncommon, a sign of elite units, to the
extent that captured camouflage uniforms would be often "recycled"
by an
enemy.
.jpg) |
 |
The Germans had experimented before the war, and some army units used
"splinter" pattern camouflage. Waffen-SS
combat units experimented from 1935 with various patterns. The initial, and
much other, Waffen-SS camouflage was designed by Prof. Johann Georg Otto
Schick.
-
Platanenmuster – "plane-tree pattern"
(1937 - 1942) –
spring/summer- and autumn/winter variations
-
Rauchtarnmuster – "blurred edge" (1939 -
1944) – spring/summer-
and autumn/winter variations
-
Palmenmuster – "palm pattern" (ca. 1941 –
?) – summer/autumn
variations
-
Beringtes Eichenlaubmuster – "oak leaf B"
(1942 bis 1945)
-
Eichenlaubmuster – "oak leaf A" (1943 -
1945) – spring/summer-
and autumn/winter variations
-
Erbsenmuster – "pea pattern" (1944 -
1945) – spring/summer- and
autumn/winter variations
-
Leibermuster (1945)
-
and also telo mimetico ("mimetic cloth"),
using fabric seized
from the Italians in 1943 (the
Leibstandarte SS Adolf Hitler often wore this pattern).
|
|
German Military tent camouflage from 1931 |
The SS-plane-tree pattern (autumn variation) |
|
The Sumpfmuster ("swamp pattern") is a
Wehrmacht
camouflage and was first introduced in 1943. Another variation was
introduced in 1944.
Apart from "Leibermuster", the official names
of the wartime German
camouflage patterns are not known: the names above are those used by
military historians and collectors.
Developed in the 1930s, khaki Battle Dress was issued
widely from 1939. With the return of war,
camouflage sections were revived. The British set up the Camouflage
Development and Training Centre in 1940 at
Farnham Castle, Surrey. Early staff included artists from the Industrial
Camouflage Research Unit such as Roland Penrose and
Frederick Gore, and the stage magician Jasper Maskelyne (later famous for
his camouflage work in the
North African campaign). The British did not use disruptive-pattern uniforms
until 1942, with the hand-painted Denison smock for
paratroopers, followed in 1943 with a similar style M42 garment.
 |
July 1944, U.S. soldier wearing a two-piece herringbone twill (HBT)
camouflage which was used by marines in the Pacific, but was quickly
abandoned in the European theater because of the similarity to the
uniform of the Waffen SS
The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers began wide-ranging experiments in
1940, but
little official notice was taken until 1942 when General Douglas MacArthur
demanded 150,000 jungle camouflage uniforms. A 1940
design, dubbed "frog-skin" or "leopard spot", was chosen
and issued as a
reversible beach/jungle coverall — soon changed to a two-part jacket and
trousers. It was first issued to the
U.S. Marines fighting on the Solomon Islands and worn by Marine Raiders and
Paramarine units as well as by many regular Marine units in the
Battle of Tarawa. Battlefield experience showed that pattern was unsuitable
for moving troops, and production was halted in 1944 with a return
to standard single-tone uniforms. |
|
During 1944, specialized units of the 2nd Armored Division serving in
Normandy were issued with "frog skin"/"leopard spot"
camouflage pattern
uniforms, but an apparent similarity to the battledress worn by Waffen SS
troops in the theatre led to some friendly fire incidents, and it was
withdrawn.
Full "leopard spot" uniforms continued to be worn by the USMC
Amphibious Reconnaissance Battalion (whose role was reprised by the USMC
Force Recon units from 1954) and by Combat Swimmer Reconnaissance Units
(later to evolve into the Navy SEALs). |
Battledress continued in use until the late 1950’s. While
serving during the Korean War (1950-53), troops had found the existing combat
uniform
inadequate: It was too hot in the summertime, and not warm enough during the
harsh Korean winters. Soldiers were at first issued Jungle Green (JG) uniforms
for hot weather, and battledress in the wintertime, but this had to be
augmented with additional warm clothing (often from the U.S. Army) as well as
caps with ear flaps and fur linings. A solution was rapidly pursued, and
towards the end of the Korean War a windproof and water-repellent gabardine
combat uniform was issued. The trousers followed the tried and tested
battledress design, while the bush jacket had several pockets inside and out,
closing with zips and buttons, a hip length skirt with draw-strings to keep
out the wind, and a similar arrangement at the waist. The uniform was produced
in a greyish green colour (OG), similar to the U.S. Army Olive Drab (OD).
With the end of National Service conscription in 1961, the Army looked for a
new uniform: Something that was smarter than battledress, but
also more comfortable, while still having a military air about it. Using the
Korean War combat clothing as a basis, various new items of field wear were
developed for the 1960-pattern Combat Dress, including the so-called
Canadian pattern combat jacket, which was well made, with a lining above the
waist and
reinforced elbows. The 1960s was a period of transition for the Army, and
this was reflected in the changes that were taking place in soldier’s
uniform.
The new, smaller, all-volunteer Army could also now
afford to equip every soldier with his own camouflaged uniform, and a pattern,
based on the
brushstroke design of the Denison Smock, was designed in 1960, called
Disruptive Pattern (DP). The camouflage is more commonly known by the name
given to the cloth printed with
the pattern: Disruptive Pattern Material (DPM). By the late sixties it was
being issued in limited quantities on 1960-pattern jackets and trousers,
making Britain the
first country in the world to issue regular troops with a standard
camouflaged combat uniform. Known as ‘66-Pattern, it was soon superseded by
the
’68-Pattern, which had a very slightly revised camouflage design on a new
uniform, featuring minor changes over the preceding 1960/66-Pattern kit, most
notably: a full lining for jacket and trousers. DPM became official army-
wide issue only in 1972.
Various redesigns of the uniform since 1984 have seen changes to the size of
the pattern and the tone of the colours, but DPM is always easily
recognisable, and remains effective. Many countries worldwide use it, or a
variation of it.
The Disruptive Pattern Material (DPM) is a
camouflage pattern
used by British forces as well many other armies worldwide, particularly in
former colonies. Direct copies or variations of DPM have been used by
Canada,
Jordan, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Oman, Pakistan, Portugal, Russia,
Saudi
Arabia, Indonesia and the United Arab Emirates, to name but a few.
The main variant is a four-colour woodland pattern with sand, green, brown
and black, there is also a two-colour desert variant in tan and brown.
It is not to be confused with the Australian Disruptive Pattern Camouflage
Uniform (DPCU).
The British army had used a disruptive pattern material
for
the famous Denison Smock issued to parachute troops from the early 1940s.
The
first examples of this design were hand-painted.
A general issue British DPM was developed in the 1960s,
and
in 1966 the Army introduced for the first time a camouflage field uniform,
the
Smock, combat, 1966 Pattern and Trousers, combat, 1966
Pattern.
These replaced the plain olive green 1960 Pattern Smock and Trousers which
had
replaced the Second World War-era khaki Battledress. In doing this the
British
army was the first to adopt a camouflage uniform universally.
The 1966 pattern DPM design used the four basic western
European temperate colours of black, dark brown, mid-green and a dark sand
to
make a very effective camouflage that has survived in its basic design, with
slight changes to the colours, until current times.
Before the 1966 Pattern equipment had reached all units a
slightly revised design of garments and DPM fabric were introduced in 1968
as
the 1968 Pattern range. A Hood, combat, DPM, was added to the range,
fastened as required to the back of the Smock with three buttons.
The 1966 Pattern DPM fabric was changed very little for
the
1968 issue, though it seems that some 1968 Pattern garments, notably
trousers,
were made in the 1966 Pattern fabric.
The pattern changes slightly with subsequent issues; 1984
Pattern has fewer dots and the brown is much darker, 1990 and later has a
band
of new shapes and is smaller, 1994 has an orangey colour instead of a tan.
DPM
items in the Combat Soldier 95 (CS95) clothing system have similar colours
to
the 1966 uniform.
Although slight changes have been made to DPM and the
colours, the pattern is easy to recognise. There are also jungle versions of
DPM where the colours are brighter, on one variation the tan is darker than
the green. Desert DPM is only two shades because a four-colour desert
version
was used by some Middle Eastern countries, notably Iraq.
From 1990 a system of Personal Load Carrying Equipment
(PLCE) has been used, initially produced in olive green . The olive type was
quickly replaced in production by a DPM version, and now almost all British
issue webbing and rucksacks are DPM.
Issued DPM equipment is IRR (Infra-red Reflective)
coated.
This coating has a specific reflective wavelength in order to blend in with
natural colours in the infra-red light spectrum. This reduces the visibility
of soldiers to night vision devices, which detect infra-red light, as trees
and other green plants reflect deep red and infra-red light (the Wood
effect).
Many war surplus "leopard spot" uniforms were sold to allied
nations reforming their armed forces. Worn by French Parachutists in the
First Indochina War, the "leopard spot" was later marketed to
civilian hunters under the name "duck hunter".
The CIA supplied "leopard spot" or “duck hunter” camouflage
uniforms for Brigade 2506 Cuban exiles in the Bay of
Pigs invasion and South Vietnamese and Montagnard Civilian Irregular Defense
Group (CIDG) counter-guerrillas until the pattern was replaced by the
tigerstripe pattern in the mid-1960s. [Blechman H, 2004].
During the Vietnam War, U.S. troops were issued a "boonie suit" in
a single dull shade of green for blending into the jungle. From the late 1950s
the USMC had been
issued with a variation on their World War II reversible helmet cover and
shelter half. This had a tan and brown “brown clouds” side (printed with large
identification numbers) and a green jungle side with a jagged “wine leaf”
(incorrectly known as “Mitchell”) pattern.
Rangers and Special Forces units (aka Green Berets) adopted the Vietnamese
"Tigerstripe" pattern with its distinctive horizontal slashes of
black, green, and tan.
Although this style became popular among the troops, it was not an official
government issue uniform. It was procured by private purchase from civilian
tailors. This is also called the "John Wayne pattern" as the
design was featured in Wayne's 1968 film
The Green Berets. Also in 1968, the brightly colored division shoulder
patches worn since World War II were gradually replaced with a
"subdued" green
and black version. Name tags and other insignia patches soon followed.
Another, four colour U.S. pattern, designed in 1948 by
the Engineer Research & Development Laboratory (ERDL) based at Fort
Belvoir,
Virginia, was later revisited for use in the Vietnam War. Named ERDL Leaf
pattern, it was first issued to elite reconnaissance and special
operations units in early 1967. It was initially produced in a lime dominant
colourway, consisting of large
organic shapes in mid green and brown, black ‘branches’, and light
green ‘leaf highlights’. Shortly thereafter a brown dominant scheme (with the
light green
replaced by light tan) was manufactured. The two patterns are also known
as ‘Lowland’ and ‘Highland’ ERDL respectively. The brown ‘Highland’ version
was
adopted as standard issue by the United States Marine Corps (USMC) from
1968, and later introduced on a
wide scale in Southeast Asia by the U.S. Army, so that by the end of the
Vietnam War American troops wearing camouflage combat dress had become the
norm. Following the withdrawal of the U.S. Army from the Southeast Asian
Theatre in 1973, camouflage clothing was no longer routinely issued in that
arm though
the 1st Battalion 13th Infantry Regiment in Baumholder, Germany wore the
Lowland ERDL in the early 1970s as an experiment. The USMC continued wearing a
transitional
‘Delta’ ERDL pattern that was issued in the mid-1970's. It was not until
1981 that the U.S. Quartermaster Dept. approved another camouflaged uniform
with
the fielding, from September (not officially introduced until 01 October,
however), of the battle dress uniform (BDU) in M81 Woodland pattern.
Although based on the Vietnam era brown dominant ERDL Leaf camouflage, but
enlarged (by 60%), and with the thicker black ‘shadows’ of the ‘Delta’
variant, the pattern was
designed primarily for use in Europe. For the next two decades, this was the
standard issue BDU for all arms of the U.S. military. Solid olive drab
uniforms were rapidly phased out, such that by the time of Operation Urgent
Fury in 1983, all participating units were clothed in M81
BDUs.
 |
The formation of the
Rapid Deployment Force (RDF) in 1979, with its remit to operate in the
Middle East, and protect U.S. interests in the
Persian Gulf region, saw the issue of the first U.S. desert
camouflage clothing, a six colour
Desert Battle Dress Uniform (DBDU), that had been originally designed in
1962. With a base pattern of light tan overlaid with broad swathes of pale
olive green and wide two-tone bands of brown, the clusters of black-on-white
spots scattered over it resulted in it being nicknamed the "chocolate
chip"
pattern. It was worn by U.S. troops taking part in the biennial
Bright Star exercises in Egypt during
the 1980s, and by
FORSCOM peacekeepers in the Egyptian Sinai. Feedback
from these users indicated that the design contrasted too much with the
terrain. Anecdotal evidence suggested that the dark areas of the pattern
warmed up more than the paler parts under desert sunlight, and retained the
heat longer. The six colours were also more expensive to manufacture than
three or four colours, and so the
U.S. Army Natick Soldier Center began the search for a substitute. Samples
of sand and earth from the Middle
East were measured for optical and infrared reflectance, and seven trial
patterns were created using these statistics. The patterns were evaluated in
fourteen different desert locations and narrowed down to one favourite. The
resulting "Desert Camouflage Pattern: Combat" was standardized in
1990, but
was not ready before troops deployed to Saudi
Arabia during the
Gulf War of 1990-1991. Consequently U.S. forces wore the six colour DBDUs
during the campaign. An initial batch of desert BDUs in the new scheme was
enroute to the Middle East when hostilities ceased.
The pattern, officially issued with the new
Desert Camouflage Uniform (DCU) in 1993, consisted of a subtle blend of
large pastel green and light tan shapes, with sparsely placed, narrow,
reddish
brown patches, leading the design to be unofficially nicknamed the “Coffee
Stain” pattern. This remained in service for over a decade, most notably
during the
2003 invasion of Iraq. Currently this pattern is being replaced by various
digital pixel patterns. |
|
The "chocolate-chip" desert camouflage pattern. |
|
 |
Digital camouflage is a pattern devised by utilizing small
micropatterns, as opposed to larger macropatterns for effective disruption.
From 1978 to the
early 1980s, the American 2nd Armored Cavalry Regiment stationed in Europe
used a digital camouflage
pattern (dual-tex) on its vehicles. During 1979 and 1980, the Australian
Army experimented with digital camouflage (dual-tex) on
helicopters. More recently, battledress in digital camouflage patterns
has been adopted by the Canadian Forces (CADPAT),
the United States Marine Corps (MARPAT), United States Army (Universal
Camouflage Pattern), the Italian Army (Vegetato)
and much of the military of Jordan. The South Korean Army recently, possibly
around August 2006, adopted a digital
camouflage pattern that is somewhat similar to the USMC's MARPAT — it is
currently being supplied to the Army Special Warfare Command units. The
Finnish Defence Forces introduced the digital M05 camouflage in 2007. The
Chinese People's Liberation Army introduced the digital Type 07
camouflage in mid-2007. The German and Danish armies today use camouflage
that involves dots instead of patterns (flecktarn).
This type of camouflage is especially effective in woodlands or jungle
areas. |
|
The CADPAT is an example of digital camouflage pattern |
|
 |
The purpose of vehicle and equipment camouflage differs from personal
camouflage in that the primary threat is
aerial reconnaissance, like fighter or reconnaissance planes or satellites.
The most important task is to cover the characteristic shape of
the vehicle that stands out from the air. Draping a camouflage net over the
vehicle is not enough for this: poles or tree branches are added under the net
to conceal the characteristic rectangular shape. |
|
A vehicle with camouflage. |
|
 |
Until the 20th century, naval weapons had a very short range, so
camouflage
was unimportant for ships; the men on board them had no need for camouflage,
of course. Paint schemes were selected on the basis of ease of maintenance or
esthetics, typically
buff upperworks (with polished brass fittings) and white or black hulls. At
the turn of the century the increasing range of naval engagements, as
demonstrated by the
Battle of Tsushima, prompted the introduction of the first camouflage, in
the form of some solid shade of gray overall, in the hope that ships would
fade into the mist. |
|
A
World War I Q-ship
disguised by dazzle camouflage |
|
Early in the First World War, the unexpected
effectiveness of submarines
led combatant navies to try to confuse the submarines with dazzle camouflage
on many ships. This was meant to break up the ship's
appearance so that its identity, range and heading could not be easily
determined, therefore the submarine would not be able to get into a good
firing position. A related scheme was the painting of false waves on a
ship's bow so that its speed would be overestimated.
In 1940 the United States Navy introduced several
camouflage measures
designed for a wide variety of ships and situations.
Measure 1 was dark gray overall except for
white structures above bridge level.
Measure 2 was dark gray on the hull and light
gray on the superstructure and turrets.
Measure 4 was black overall. This was intended
for night operations but it was found that even on very dark nights, black
ships were
more noticeable than gray ones.
Measure 5 was a false bow wave.
Measures 7 and 8 were used to make cruisers
resemble destroyers.
Measure 11 was sea blue overall, including the
decks. It was used in the Pacific and Mediterranean to hide from aircraft.
Measure 12 was navy blue or dark gray low on
the hull, ocean gray
at about the main deck level, and haze gray or pale gray above that. The
boundaries between the different colors were irregular.
Measure 13 was haze gray overall. This was
found to provide reasonable protection in the widest range of conditions, and
became the
standard paint scheme after the war.
Measure 14 was ocean gray overall. This was
widely used on supply ships.
Measure 16 was white with large polygonal
patches of light sea blue. This was very suitable for the North Atlantic.
Measure 21 was navy blue overall, including the
decks. This largely replaced measure 11.
Measure 22 was navy blue low on the hull, with
haze gray above that. This was the single most popular measure since it made
range estimation very difficult.
Measure 31 was an army-style pattern of greens,
browns and grays used by smaller ships like landing craft and PT boats that
operated close to
shore.
Measure 32 was a mixture of polygons in navy
blue, various grays and greens.
Measure 33 was a mixture of polygons in various
grays and lighter greens. This was very suitable for northern waters.
Except in measures 11 and 21, decks were a blue gray shade.
 |
Between the wars, British naval ships were generally dark gray in
northern waters, and light gray in
the Mediterranean or tropical waters. In the first year of the war British
captains largely painted their ships as they saw fit. As the war continued,
the Admiralty introduced various standardized camouflage schemes. |
|
A Royal Norwegian Navy craft, in a splinter camouflage pattern |
|
-
Western Approaches Scheme was white with large
polygonal patches
of light sea blue or light sea green. This was very suitable for the North
Atlantic.
-
Mountbatten pink was invented by Captain Louis Mountbatten. Its
effectiveness was much disputed.
-
Admiralty Disruptive Patterns were a wide range of
patterns in
blues, grays and greens with mottled boundaries between the various colour
patches.
-
Admiralty Standard Schemes were light gray overall,
except for a
sea blue patch low on the hull, either between the main gun turrets or the
entire length of the hull. They were much like the American measure 22.
-
Admiralty Alternative Scheme was a dark gray hull
with light gray
turrets and superstructure. It was popular in the Mediterranean.
-
Home Fleet Destroyer Scheme was like the Western
Approaches
Scheme but used darker shades of blue and gray in the rear half of the
ship.
British decks were usually dark gray.
Kriegsmarine ships before the war were either light gray overall or had
dark gray hulls. Many retained this scheme during the war. Others had dazzle
camouflage, usually in combinations of pale gray, dark gray and sea blue.
Smaller ships were painted a very pale gray to blend in with the mists of
northern European waters. Larger ships often had their bows and sterns
painted a different shade from the rest of the hull. German decks were a very
dark
gray.
Mussolini's navy retained its pre-war scheme of light gray overall for its
smaller ships, but the larger units mostly had dazzle camouflage of dark gray,
light sea blue, light sea green and light gray. Italian foredecks had a high-
visibility pattern of red and white diagonal stripes so that their own
aircraft would not attack them.
Japanese ships largely retained their pre-war dark gray paint scheme,
although some major units like
aircraft carriers changed to a dark sea green. Some aircraft carriers had
their flight decks painted in a dazzle camouflage, but this seems to have been
ineffective.
Soviet ships were dark gray overall, sometimes with medium gray
upperworks.
The French Navy used light gray before the war and under the Vichy regime.
Free French ships that operated with the British adopted one of the British
schemes. Those that were refitted in American shipyards were usually
repainted in the American measure 22.
After the Second World War, the universal adoption of radar made
camouflage much less effective.
The design of camouflage for aircraft is complicated by the fact that
the appearance of the aircraft's background varies widely, depending on the
location of the observer (above or below) and the nature of the background.
For this reason, many military aircraft are painted light blue below (to match
the sky), but blotchy, darker colours above (to match the ground). The
higher speeds of modern aircraft, and the reliance on radar and missiles to
defend
against them, have reduced the value of visual camouflage, while increasing
the value of electronic camouflage ("stealth") measures.
A
Ukrainian Su-25 painted with earth colours on the top and sky colour
on the
bottom |
 |
The transfer of camouflage patterns from battle to
exclusively civilian
uses is not a recent phenomenon. The first military camouflage was used by
the
French on their trucks and automobiles (the only military vehicles of the
day)
and within three weeks of the German invasion of France in 1914, the
couturiers of Paris, having observed them, had turned those abstract
patterns
into women's clothing. It symbolized modernity to them, the first industrial
war. Ironically, this means that it was used for civilian clothing long
before
it was used for uniforms. Dazzle camouflage also inspired a trend of
dazzlesque patterns used on clothing in England, in 1919 Chelsea Arts Club
held a "Dazzle Ball", those attending wore disruptively patterned
black and
white clothing. The earliest camouflage artists were members of the
Post- Impressionist and Fauve
schools of France. The camouflage experts were, for the most part, painters
like
Forain,
Camoin,
Villon and
Marcoussis, sculptors like
Boucher and
Despiau, and theatre set artists. Camouflage schemes of the First World War
and Interwar periods that
employed disruptive patterns were often described as "cubist" by
commentators,
and Picasso is even said to have claimed "We invented that (camouflage)
".
Despite this, there is little evidence that the cubists themselves were
employed as camoufleurs.
While many hundreds of artists were involved in the
development of
camouflage during and since World
War I, the disparate sympathies of the two cultures restrained the use of
"militaristic" forms in works other than those of war
artists. Since the 1960s, however, artists have seized upon camouflage as
a means to twist and subvert it away from its military origins and
symbolism.
The concept of camouflage - to conceal and distort shapes - is also a
popular
artistic tool.
Artists using camouflage include:
-
Andy Warhol (notably his 1986 camouflage series, his last
major work)
-
Alain Jacquet (extraordinarily prolific in camouflage
works from 1961
into the 1970s)
-
Ian Hamilton Finlay, Vera von
Lehndorff (aka Veruschka) and
Holger Trülzsch ("Nature, Signs & Animals", "Mimicry-
Dress-Art", all
1970-73)
-
Thomas Hirschhorn (Utopia : One World, One War,
One Army, One Dress,
2005).
Camouflage garments had a similarly hesitant adoption,
although military
styling has a long history of civilian use. Military patterns initially
found civilian markets amongst hunters
and, through
military surplus, in those seeking clothing that was tough, well-made, and
cheap in the United States and other countries. The steady output from
countries using a
national service model was influential, and several countries (initially
the 'winning' sides of World War II, where there was less negative
connection
with military-wear) became significant markets. In the United States in the
1960s, military clothing became increasingly common (mostly olive
drab rather than patterned camouflage); interestingly, it was often found
worn by
anti-war protestors, initially within groups such as
Vietnam Veterans Against the War but then increasingly widely as a symbol
of political protest. In the years after the Vietnam War, camouflage
military
clothing became very popular among many people, replacing olive-drab
military
clothing.
The "rebellious" links of civilian camouflage
diminished through the 1970s
and beyond as more mainstream groups adopted a style seen as youthful and
anti-establishment.
Fashion has since become increasingly eager to adopt camouflage -
attracted by the striking designs, the "patterned disorder" of
camouflage, its
symbolism (to be celebrated or subverted [vide its use by Hello
Kitty]), and its versatility. Early designers include
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (1975-),
Roland Chakal (1970),
Stephen Sprouse (using Warhol prints, 1987-1988), and
Franco Moschino (1986), but it was not until the 1990s that camouflage
became a significant and widespread facet of dress from streetwear to
high-fashion labels - especially the use of "faux-camouflage".
Producers using
camouflage in the 1990s and beyond include:
John Galliano for
Christian Dior, Marc
Jacobs for
Louis Vuitton,
Comme des Garçons, Chanel,
Tommy Hilfiger,
Dolce & Gabbana, Issey
Miyake,
Armani,
Yves Saint-Laurent, and others.
Certain companies have become very closely associated
with camouflage
patterns (such as Maharishi and mhi, Zoo York,
Addict, 6876, A
Bathing Ape, Stone
Island, and
Girbaud), using and overprinting genuine military surplus fabric, and have
also extended the patterns by creating their own designs or integrating
camouflage patterns with other symbols. The use of original patterns in new
(often bright) colours is also common.
Some countries such as Barbados, Aruba, and
other
Caribbean nations have strict laws that prohibit camouflage clothing from
being worn by non-military personnel, including tourists and children. These
laws may be motivated by the fear that a tourist might be mistaken by
government troops for insurgents, or vice versa, and fired upon.

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